The Apocalyptic chant of the Zombies:
What do we want? … BRAINS!
When do we want them? … BRAINS!
Well I want brains now too and I’m going to having some.
It is strange how, even for lovers of offal, many find brains challenging.
Strange, considering it has to be the most pure of any organ in the body and the most delicate.
Brains contain omega 3 fatty acids and are high in nutrients include phosphatidylcholine and phosphatidylserine, which, funnily enough, are good for the nervous system.
When eaten they remind me most closely of a savoury version of my childhood pleasure, Angel Delight.
Even many pescatarians take great pleasure in sucking the brains from out of the head of a prawn but suggest animal brain to many hardened carnivores and they go weak at the knees, scared that they might turn into one of the undead. Yet they are savoured all over the world in many cuisines.
If you are prepared to give it a go, there are classic ways before trying the more abstruse.
Sesos de Cordero a la Romana
Lamb’s brain is broken into tablespoon size pieces, soaked in milk, breaded then quickly deep-fried. To remove yourself from the process I would recommend starting at Can Vilaro in San Antoni, Barcelona. They have them on the menu every day (‘Cervell a la Romana’ in Catalan) and are the best I’ve had. All light and fluffy it is more about texture than taste.
Cervelle de Veau au Beurre Noisette
The classic French way, Calf Brains are sautéed in brown butter and capers. This gives them a lovely nutty taste which brings out the best of the naturally subtle flavour. When they first opened the lovely Clipstone Restaurant, just behind Broadcasting House, had them on the daily lunch menu. They were perfectly prepared in true French style. It felt like the restaurant was making a statement of their intentions. Sadly they took them off and I haven’t been since but do go anyway. They produce some fine fare nonetheless.
Omelete de Mioleira
A Portuguese dish of pork brains cooked with eggs. The brains are cut up in pieces, fried then mashed up. The pan is taken off the heat and whisked eggs are stirred in so the whole dish is creamy. I would say it is more scrambled egg than omelette. Americas in the Midwest used eat a similar dish for breakfast, no fancy name, just Brain and Egg. It was cheap and popular in hard times. Apparently it’s making a bit of a comeback now.
Recipe for Cervelle de Veau au Beurre Noisette – Calf Brain in brown butter
Very carefully remove the membrane from the brain and soak it in 50/50 milk & water for a hour.
Make a court-bouillon by boiling celery, carrots, leek, onion, a bay leaf and whatever you have lying about in a litre of water. The green tops of leeks that you may otherwise throw away are excellent for this.
After 30/40 minutes strain into another pan. This is your poaching liquid. Bring to a low simmer so it is barely bubbling.
Take the brain from where it has been soaking and gently lower it into the court-bouillon with a large slotted spoon. Poach for 20 minutes then carefully pat dry with a clean tea-towel. Note kitchen roll may leave bits of paper behind.
While poaching take 200g of butter and melt it in a cast iron pan over a medium heat. Let it foam but keep stirring to get the milk solids from the bottom. It will start to brown and give off a nutty aroma. Once browned stir in a good slug on cider vinegar. Add 80g of drained capers and keep warm.
At this point some choose to sauté the brains in the butter for a few minutes. However it is a delicate operation and not absolutely necessary. Either way now place the brain on a slice of toast or fried bread and pour the brown butter over it. Sprinkle with finely chopped fresh parsley and salt to taste.