A good sardine is always better than a mediocre lobster. Ferran Adrià
A personal list of recommended restaurants, bars and clubs based on local knowledge after nearly two decades of extreme lunching in Barcelona.
Disfrutar
Carrer de Villarroel, 163, L’Eixample, 08036
https://extremelunching.com/disfrutar-barcelona/
https://www.disfrutarbarcelona.com/
The day after the first time we went to Disfrutar, it was voted the Best New Restaurant in Europe and, in my limited experience, I would not argue.
It is now rated simply the Best in the World. Numero Uno!
The cooking is simply spectacular with extravagant and sometimes theatrical presentation without pretension. The service is warm, well informed and courteous. Upon arrival you are taken through the kitchen and introduced to the chefs and other staff who take time to say hello. The whole kitchen seems to be frantically busy but completely relaxed and confident. The main room is a joy to sit in, full of light, reminding one of the seaside where the chefs come from, looking out on to a large enclosed terrace. Alternatively there is seating facing some parts of the kitchen if you like to see the team at work.
There are two tasting menus, both at 295 euros and of about 30 courses. Go for the ‘Classic’ the first time. Allow plenty of time!
The wine flight was a step too far. Stick to the wine list. It is remarkably reasonable and comprehensive.
Seemingly booked up for months but it is worth calling them or join the waiting list on the web site and you might get a surprise call early in the morning. They do keep some tables back.
Suculent
Rambla del Raval 45, 08001
https://suculent.com/
Spectacular experimental cuisine but very tasty for it at a most reasonable price. Go for the set menu. If you’re lucky it might include rabbit brain on lobster tartare or hare cannelloni and foie gras with crispy chicken skin. Do try the hand made crisps while you peruse the menu.
La Mar Salada
Passeig Joan de Borbó, 58-59, 08003 Barceloneta
https://www.lamarsalada.cat/en/
Set on a pretty terrace overlooking the harbour Albert goes to the fish auctions there every dawn to get the freshest produce. I have been eating here since the first week that I arrived in Barcelona when it was voted Best Lunch Menu in the Time Out food awards. One of the greatest combinations ever to pass my lips was here: A quail egg inside an artichoke heart topped with bone marrow and caviar. Rejoice!
Compartir
Calle Valencia 225 · 08007 Barcelona
https://www.compartirbarcelona.com/restaurant-en/
When chefs Mateu Casañas, Oriol Castro and Eduard Xatruch left El Bulli, before Disfrutar they opened Compartir in Cadaqués on the Costa Brava. Now they have brought its little sister to Barcelona. Not so flamboyant as the flagship it is still creative gastronomy at a very reasonable price. Compartir means ‘to share’ and here the emphasis is, indeed, on sharing plates. Start with a selection of the divine oysters from the Ebro Delta. Other highlights include muscles in béarnaise sauce, veal carpaccio with port, foie gras and Idiazabal cheese and, foremost, crab with avocado and trout roe.
La Platilleria
Carrer Del Roser 82, 08004
https://www.facebook.com/laplatilleria
https://www.instagram.com/laplatilleria/?hl=en
[This is my friends’ bar and my favourite in town. Do go and do say hi to Mariela & Fernando]
Small tapas bar high up in Poble Sec but well worth the walk, this is some of the most stunning but unpretentious food to be had in Barcelona. Charming front of house from Mariela with ex-husband Fernando manning the stove. The menu on a chalkboard doesn’t hint at the complexity of tastes on offer. Try the quail in a jar (Codorniz), the meat and squid balls (Albondigas) or maybe the octopus (Pulpo) that just melts in your mouth. My absolute favourite, it just doesn’t get much better. Bloody reasonable too.
Set Portes
Pg. d’Isabel II, 14, 08003 Barcelona
https://7portes.com/en/
Grand old school restaurant, open since 19C. Has the atmosphere of a gentlemen’s club with a piano playing in the lobby and ancient waiters in black tie. Naturally very good paella. Authentic, not the tourist muck, with that all important socarrat, the crunchy layer on the bottom which all respectable paella must have. Great for a long lunch as they are open without a break so your afternoon can extend right into the evening as I have done on occasion.
Llamber
Carrer de la Fusina 5, El Born 08003
https://llamber.com/eng/
Creative funky sharing plates of curious combinations. Highlights could include Pulpo gratinado con queso ahumado de Pría, Morcilla de Burgos con chipirones or Foie con maiz en texturas but leave room for their stunning puddings. Best to go with a few people so you can share many dishes.
El Xampanyet
Carrer de Montcada, 22, 08003 Barcelona
https://www.tripadvisor.co.uk/Restaurant_Review-g187497-d697571-Reviews-El_Xampanyet-Barcelona_Catalonia.html
Old cava bar near the Picasso museum, it can get packed but worth popping by for a glass or three. Just make sure it is real Cava and not the cheap muck. The first time I went in the owner tried to sell me his bar cheaply on condition I took his wife with it.
Salamanca
Carrer de l’ Almirall Cervera, 34 Barceloneta
https://restaurantesalamanca.es/
This is well established for groups that want tapas and paella at a reasonable price on a huge terrace. For my birthday I took 60 chums. I agreed a fee of 30 euros pp with the manager, including Pica Pica, paella, desserts, coffee, liquors and, amazingly all the beer, wine and cava we could drink. “You do realise a lot of the guests are English? ” I asked. “I know” he replied with raised eyebrows and a mournful look as he saw the week’s profits sail away. They did us proud.
La Ciudadela
Paseo Lluis Companys 08010
https://restaurante.ciudadelaparc.com/en/
Handy if you are going to Parc Ciudadela opposite, this is the restaurant of a family run hotel. Great lunch menu on a terrace facing the Park for a tenner or an evening menu for a score and rooms upstairs if you can’t make it home.
Sesamo
Carrer de Sant Antoni Abat, 52, 08001
https://www.instagram.com/sesamobcn
The best vegetarian restaurant in town by far and good fun nonetheless. Run by the lovely Alfredo. Exceptional and imaginative fare all considered. Check the board behind the bar for exotic specials.
Quimet y Quimet
Poeta Cabanyes 25, Poble Sec 08004
https://quimetiquimet.com/en/
Tiny famous tapas bar tucked away in the back streets of Poble Sec. Very proud of their tinned food. The tins are presented on the plate to prove authenticity. Bless. Walls are covered in bottles you can drink there or take away.
Ciudad Comtal
Rambla de Catalunya 18, 08007 Barcelona
https://www.instagram.com/cerveceriaciudadcondal/?hl=en
Mouthwatering traditional tapas bar. Nice terrace on a rambla. Friendly staff. Elegant interior. You may have to queue, it’s the national hobby, but worth the wait. Grab the man in the blue shirt and put your name down.
Open until 1.30am every day of the year.
Cerveceria Catalana
Carrer Mallorca, 236, Barcelona
Sister to Ciudad Comtal above but a bit further uptown. Same deal, Same grub. Top gaf.
Elsa & Fred
Rec Comtal 11, 08003
https://www.elsayfred.es/en/home/
French bistro decor, funky food. Oxtail burger a must.
Vivanda
Major de Sarrià, 134, Sarrià-Sant Gervasi, Barcelona 08017
https://www.vivanda.cat/
Tucked away far up town in Sarrià, this hidden gem, sister restaurant to Alkimai, features a cool and lush garden. Food, served in small portions ideal for sharing, is creative and seasonal and may feature superb snails and a very spicy steak tartar. A magical place all round. Definitely worth a detour.
Can Vilaró
Comte Borrell, 61, 08015 Barcelona
https://x.com/can_vilaro
Family run old school Catalan restaurant. It serves the best brains in Barcelona. Quite literally. Deep fried in a panko coating. Order house wine and you’ll just be charged 2.50 each for “Pa i Vi”, bread and wine You certainly wouldn’t have to sell your kidney but you could eat some. Offally good.
Gelida
Diputació, 133, 08015 (corner of Urgell) Barcelona
https://culinarybackstreets.com/cities-category/barcelona/2016/gelida/
You don’t get more authentic old school Catalan eating experience than this, or cheaper. Cap i Pota, Galtes de Porc, Miel i Mato & a trifásico did it for me. Probably the best snails in town too. The vino comes in a porró straight from the barrel and you have to ask for a glass if you don’t want to neck it from the spout as you should do. It felt like asking for a knife and fork in a Chinese restaurant but I’ve made a mess of a good shirt before.There is no menu del dia but the most expensive dish to be had is 4.50€. Wine 2.30€ a carafe and the bill is down to your honesty. You just tell them what you had as they tot it up at the end.
Bar Victoria
Carrer dels Àngels, 8, 08001 Barcelona
https://maddogtvdinners.wordpress.com/2013/08/20/bar-victoria-revisitado/
A.A. Gill said that the best restaurant is your local that you go to the most. This is it for me. The lovely chaps here serve hearty Catalan favourites. Three courses and a bottle of wine each for 11 euros all in, day and night; you can’t knock it. If you go on Sunday you just might find the Catalan classic Conill i cargols, rabbit and snails. Say hi from me.
Rías do Miño
C/ de Pepe Rubianes, 37, 39, 08003 Barceloneta
https://xn--riasdomio-s6a.com/
Excellent value set lunch on a terrace by the beach. Not so good in the evening.Galician seafood. Best fish soup in Barcelona. Authentic surly waiters. While having coffee one morning two paddy wagons pulled up and 20 Mossos, the local hardcore fuzz, rushed in. I assumed it was a raid but an hour later I found them packed into the basement laden with bottles of cava and brandy alongside plates of tapas. Just the night shift coming off duty.
Joanet
Plaça de Sant Agusti Vell, 6, 08003
https://www.joanet.es/en/
Classic Catalan family run gaf in beautiful leafy square. Mum cooks, dad stays behind the bar while the daughters wait. Set 10 euro menu on weekdays. Wine comes in grolsch bottles. Just lovely.
Not open in the evenings, except Friday and Saturday. Closed Thursdays and all of August
Rekons
Comte D’Urgell, 32, 08011
https://www.instagram.com/explore/locations/826573754114178/rekons/
Quite simply the best empanadas (Argentinian pies) in town. A huge selection in this old deli in the barrio of Sant Antoni, all hand made with some interesting combinations. Seating on the terrace or in the attic up a creaky staircase. Fine beers, wine and jolly staff make this well worth a visit and a cheap fun night out all round.
Bodega de Vermut
Carrer de les Magdalenes, 6, 08002
https://www.facebook.com/bodegacaladelvermut/
Very Catalan vermouth bar, though run by Dominicans, but very friendly. An absolute must, if just for a glass of Vermut and a couple of tapas, often on the house. The size of a skip, there’s hardly any room, so stand outside and lean on a barrel. They have two others in the same street with a bit more space and well worth a visit but this is the classic. Great on Sunday mornings for the hair of the dog. Hard to leave as once you get the bill they insist on buying you another round.
La Plata
Carrer de la Mercè, 28, 08002
https://barlaplata.com/
They only serve 3 things: Sardines, chorizo on bread, anchovy and tomato salad. Wine comes out from a barrel served in a porrón. You wouldn’t go there for a big night out but it has to be done if you are passing.
El Xiringo
Carrer Sant Carles, 23, 08003
https://www.instagram.com/xiringo_restaurant/?hl=en
Tiny wine bar in Barceloneta with a one-table restaurant attached. Special selection of Cavas and fine wine. Superb tapas made to order but watch out for Xavi’s spicy balls. (Bombas) They’ll blow your head off.
Zona d’Ombra
Calle Sant Domènec del Call, 12 08002
http://www.zonadombra.es/index.php/en/
Great wine shop with a bar attached in the old Jewish quarter behind the cathedral. Pick a bottle from the fine selection in the racks and if you wish to drink in there and then you just pay 1.50 pp above the shelf price. Charming proprietors couldn’t be more helpful.
Bar Bodega Quimet de Gràcia – Carrer de Vic, 23 , 08012
https://www.barcelonafoodexperience.com/blog/bodega-quimet
Old school bodega, recently taken over by two young brothers but who had the sense not to change the decor. They did however bring in some really fine wines though you can still buy wine from the barrel and their own vermut.
L’Antic Teatre Bar
C/ Verdaguer i Callís 12 , 08003
https://www.anticteatre.com/antic-teatre-3-2-2-2-2-2/bar/
Social arty theatre bar tucked away just by Palau de la Música with huge enclosed garden terrace. Cheap cava, great beer and splendid Mojitos. Rubbish vino though; you have been warned.
Boadas
Tallers, 1, 08001
https://www.theworlds50best.com/discovery/Establishments/Spain/Barcelona/Boadas.html
An oasis off the Ramblas, this elegant cocktail bar has been going since 1933 and looks like it. They recently fought a legal battle to ban men in shorts and quite rightly too. Each cocktail is meticulously made with great care but this does mean a round can take 20 minutes but it is a place you wouldn’t want to be rush anyway. Patron Maria Dolores presided over the gaf looking like Joan Rivers on a heavy dose of prozac in a gale force wind, but perhaps this is just the effects of running a bar like this for 50 odd years.
Caribbean Club
Carrer de les Sitges, 5, 08001
https://www.instagram.com/explore/locations/241759289/club-caribbean-barcelona/?hl=en-gb
Owned by the more famous Boadas above and just round the corner but tourist free, this is a best kept secret in the manor. Fine cocktails in old world setting. The head barman looks just like Erich von Stroheim. Extensive collection of cocktail shakers.
La Caseta de Migdia
Mirador del Migdia, s/n 08038
https://www.lacaseta.org/
Go up to the castle on Montjuïc, follow the outside path to the right along the moat past the cable car station and keep going round. For a lazy Sunday afternoon in the summer, once you get there, slop out in a hammock in the pine trees with DJs playing some sloppy music and a BBQ roasting away. Panoramic views over the container port. Have a look at the local boneyard a bit further on while you are up there.