Kedgeree

This single-dish concoction works equally well as breakfast for an exasperated gang of troupers after a long cocaine-fuelled session banging out house tunes in the sweaty basements of Shoreditch who need immediate sustenance as it does for a delicate start to the day recovering from a long night in, bingeing on the latest Netflix series with a mug of Horlicks.

Kedgeree is always assumed to be something the Brits created in the days of the Raj but, in fact, it had been knocking around in India in similar form for centuries as Khichdi, a rice dish featuring fish and boiled eggs.

Why, once landed in Blighty, was it adopted as a traditional weekend breakfast essential is anyone’s guess but breakfast it is.

Naturally it pairs very well with Kingfisher or Cobra Beer.

Kedgeree recipe

75 gm undyed smoked haddock fillet
2 bay leaves
200 gm basmati rice, thoroughly rinsed
4 hard-boiled eggs, quartered
100 gm frozen peas, cooked
1 onion, finely diced
2 tbsp curry powder
3 tbsp double cream
3 tbsp lemon juice
a small handful of coriander, finely chopped

In a wide deep pan gently poach the fish in 500 ml water, skin-side down, with the bay leaves for about 10 minutes until just flaking. Do not overcook. Drain, importantly reserving the liquid. Discard the bay leaves. When cool enough remove the skin and flake into small chunks.

Use the reserved poaching liquid to cook the rice in. Add more water, if necessary, to make up the right ratio (1/1.5).

Meanwhile sautée the onion in butter until transparent then add the curry powder and cook for a further 5 minutes.

Mix the onion, lemon, cream and half the coriander into the rice then carefully fold in the flaked fish.

Transfer to a large serving bowl, shower the rest of the coriander over it and place the eggs on top. Allow your guests to help themselves.