A Victorian English classic but not for everyone, Devilled Kidneys make an offally good start to the day.
Some soak the kidneys in milk first to remove some of the blood but this misses the whole point. They must be served pink on the inside. However if they have a strong uric whiff then throw them away and find a better butcher.
Remove the thick white suet if not already done but keep it to render for frying or making dumplings another day. Peel away the fine membrane and cut the kidneys in half. Trim off the white gristle from inside. This is most easily done with a pair of sharp kitchen shears. Rinse under cold water and pat dry.
In a hot pan fry them just enough to brown the outsides. Remove the kidneys and chuck a good slug of red wine and a shot of brandy into the pan, deglazing the gunk on the bottom and quickly reduce it for a minute. Add a teaspoon of English mustard, a pinch of cayenne pepper and stir for a moment. Return the kidneys but be careful not to overcook them. Fold in a dollop of thick double cream, sprinkle with smoked paprika and you’re done.
Serve on thickly buttered toast or bread fried in lard or goose fat if you are feeling up for it. Dress with chopped parsley if you must.